Thursday, March 29

This morning’s class concluded our discussions of non-public Maya architecture. We looked at the temple-pyramids of Tikal as ancestral shrines that combined lineage or factional characteristics including burials with records of public events of war and victory celebrations. This helped us to understand the institution of rulership as combining the position as head of the ruling faction and the more public embodiment of the polity by which the ruler re-creates the cosmos and organizes warfare. We then went on to discuss the architecture of Copán and the disputes over the function of buildings on the acropolis as temples or residences.

This afternoon was my first really free time since even before coming to Chiapas, as I am caught up on both class preparation and marking. It is a temporary respite, since more assignments are due tomorrow, but I decided to have fun this afternoon.

I set out to climb the small hill to the shrine of the Virgin of Guadalupe from which I expected to get a good view of the city. On the way, I heard wonderful music coming from Tierra Adentro, a café surrounded by shops run by Indigenous cooperatives. I went in, thinking I could listen to the music while looking in the store that sells paintings by Zapatista artists and their supporters. I did buy one, pictured above, choosing it for the familiar motifs and the representation of both men and women (which is surprisingly rare among the paintings in this shop, most of which show only women). Several students were in the café working on their assignment, so I dragged them in to see my proud purchase. The artist’s name is Tomás, he is Tzeltal from Ocosingo, and it was painted in November, 2006.

On I went to the Guadalupe shrine but by the time I got there is was too overcast and gloomy for nice views. I then continued on to Santo Domingo to stroll through the artesanías market and the two weaving cooperatives. I was happy to be able to watch two Chamula women weaving the ubiquitous belts.

The adjoining historical museum devoted to this area was open so I bought a ticket and went in. I looked at the exhibits of the history of San Cristobal and nearby areas, being especially interested in the displays on two Indigenous Maya rebellions: the Cancuc rebellion of 1712 and the War of the Castes of 1869. From there it was possible to stroll through the old monastery on both levels. I would like to go back to this exhibit again with Rita.